My first trip on Thailand’s railway was from Bangkok to Chang Mai. I arrived in Bangkok’s bustling Railway station late, without a ticket, hoping I would be able to get on the night train. I had heard that the station was littered with Travel Agents, who would tell you they would get you a ticket and then try to sell you various tours and trips were ever you are going. In fact the Tuk-Tuk driver who brought me to the station even offered to get me a ticket. I told I had one. So when I entered the station I set my sites on the Information Desk and went to straight for it. They were able to tell me that there was indeed a ticket, on the sleeper train leaving in 20 minutes , and that I could get the ticket at counter 2. Great! Looking at the long queues I was a little worried, but at counter 2 , there were just two people. The sign above the counter told me why; “Foreigners and priority passengers only” . This is a country that knows on which side it’s bread is buttered.
The sleeper train was a little late leaving. The trip would take about 12 hours, though the night. The train had 2 seats facing each other each side of the isle. Each of this 2 seats convert into a set of bunk beds. Each carraige has a toilet, sinks and a member of staff who converts the seat to bunks, dress the beds and serves food, drinks.
I was sitting with opposite a Thai guy called Tawat. He was really nice bloke with broken English, who sourced Thai made goods for places like Habitat. After discussing the huge markups of the goods in habitat and talking about my home and his (which looks like a Habitat show home
), the rail car staff, came by which a menu. We declined, and both took out our prepared supplies, which we shared and swaped. Tawat had a typical Thai take out, a rice and meat sausage and a hot spicy sauce. The sauce was in a plastic bag, tied with the air still in it, so it looks like a balloon. You see this everywhere in Thailand.
I thought I’d buy a large bottle of Chang beer to share with my new friend. I called the carriage guy and asked him how much a bottle was. 170 Baht. Ok I knew it would be a little more but the usual price is more like 70 Baht. I was about to say what the hell and buy one, when I saw Tawat motioning not to buy it. No thanks I said.
When the carriage guy was gone I asked Tawat what was up? For you, he said, its 170 Baht, but for me its 100 Baht. He smiled. Yes we charge foreigners more!! So Tawat bought the beer from then on. And our carriage guy laughed it off. So if you want to buy beer on the trains, get to know a local!
The bunks on the train are pretty comfortable, but the train is noisy and the lights don’t get turned off, so bring earplugs and a bandana to cover your eyes. Also I met some people who caught people at their bags during the night so be careful of your things, and lock your bags.
All-in-all, my Thai train experience was good, and it was a great way to meet Thai nationals and chat about their country for a couple of hours. And of course, no need to pay for a hostel for the night!!!